The Registry is fully functional now, please help me get your old data connected to your username so you can keep your current position in the registry!!
January 02, 2015, 01:04:53 PM by Tobias Andersson | Views: 118 | Comments: 1
I live in Sweden so i hope you understand my bad English.
I am 37 years old and i bought my very first GO mustang the in beginning of 2014.
Now i gonna spend several of hours here on the GO forum and look at your other nice mustangs.
Have a great new 2015.
Pages:  2
May 13, 2010, 07:39:59 PM by Citricacid
Views: 790 | Comments: 0
Here's my how-to on installing hood pins.
First decide where you want to place them. Some people like them really close together, others like them as far away as possible. Best choice is where the factory bump stops are.
Start by removing the bump stops by unscrewing them. Then remove their base by prying on the side of them.
Some filing had to be done to the hole for my 1/2" pins to fit where the bump stops were. Also the bottom securing nut had to be inserted into the core support to raise the pins high enough to clear the hood.
Next, place some peanut butter on the tips of the pins and shut the hood to mark the places where you'll have to drill for the holes.
Using a center punch, make an indention in the middle of the peanut butter to mark where the hole will be drilled. Drill, using a step bit, through the bottom half of the hood and then place tape on top of the hood to help minimize paint chipping.
The hood is fiberglass so long sleeves is recommended
After drilling, shut the hood and note any spots that'll need to be filed until the hood opens and closes without touching the pin.
Once satisfied, place the plate on the hood and carefully center it before drilling the holes for the mounting screws. Carefully drill the holes and then screw the self tapping screws in a criss-cross pattern to ensure equal tightening of the plate.
Once both sides are done, add the lanyards.
and enjoy a job well done!
August 10, 2009, 06:37:55 PM by Citricacid
Views: 912 | Comments: 7
So I ordered some white faced gauges from Dallas mustang on ebay for $16!! Well, they came today and I decided to install them. No biggie, since I had done one on my Focus before. Well, after getting the center section on, I realized that they gave me the wrong year set up. I ordered a 2001-2004 kit and received a 96-98 kit. Well, it seemed like everything lined up so I plugged it in to test the needle placement and I noticed that the idiot lights where in the wrong spot. Now I was starting to get upset. Well, I decided that since I can't return it I'ld just splice the old idiot light cover to the new one. Well, that looked like crap cause I can't cut straight and I vowed never to buy from Dallas Mustang again! I told myself the whole time that "You get what you pay for!" and was kicking myself sideways. Anyhoo, as I was retesting the needle placement, would you believe it, the fuel needle fell into the dash. Now I'm fuming and it wasn't pretty. So I started to take the knee plate out and I found the lost needle. I placed it on the pannel and everything worked perfect, but still looked like crap. Well, I deceided to put it all together and behold, I had forgotten about the plastic bezzel which to my fortune, covered up the crappiness! I'm very pleased with the way it turned out and how I figured a way to make it all come together!
July 02, 2009, 07:30:29 PM by Citricacid
Views: 1636 | Comments: 5
I love the old school cars and after seeing this on the internet, I became obsessed and decided I'ld take up the challenge and make the mesh grill with the offset pony. Here's how I did it.
1: Driver's side fender emblem (pony and bars) Ford part #YR3Z 16098 BB (cost $16.55 after tax)
2: mesh grill 25" wide by 9" tall (I looked everywhere and only found them at Pepboys for $39.99. Then I remembered that a friend might have one and he did so I got mine for free, and have a spare as well, pm me if you want it)
3: Spray paint color of your choice
4: Upholstery removal tool, used to pop those x-mas tree looking plastic pins
5: screw driver, philips head
6: 7mm socket, 3/4" ratchet and 7mm wrench
8: helper is optional
1) Remove the radiator cover to get to the top of the grill. Be very careful of the plastic screw and wedge sets, as they can break. Trust me, I broke 3. Fail
2) Pull back on the grill to get down to the 4 7mm bolts that hold the grill in place. Pain in the butt if you ask me.
3) Once the grill is removed clean up the area underneath it and start to mold the mesh into shape. I found it easiest to transfer the clips from the bottom of the old grill to the mesh grill and screw the mesh to the bumper to help hold it in place while shaping it.
p.s. Make sure your helper knows the difference between a ratchet and a screw driver!
4) Once it's shaped to your hearts content, remove it from the car and paint it to the color of your choice. I went with good old black.
5)Now, on the back of my pony there is a cross shaped prong. In order for it to fit into my mesh, the top and bottom flanges on the prong had to be cut off. Easy work with a hacksaw. Also, when I placed it into the mesh, I had to file down one of the sides to help make it fit. On the skinny prong, I took the locking washers off the old grill and placed it on the new one to hold the pony in place. I didn't bother removing the cover for the adhesive.
6) I then screwed the mesh grill to the bumper using the original holes and clips. Place the radiator cover back over the mesh and insert the screw and wedge sets to their locations and you are done!
April 27, 2009, 04:30:21 PM by Citricacid
Views: 1425 | Comments: 6
Ok, so the stock, single color of your stang just isn't doing it for you any more and you want to spice it up; may I suggest some classic, always in style, LeMans stripes! Sounds interesting? Then grab a buddy and here's a parts list:
1. Windex or a spray bottle filled with soapy water
2. Razor blade
3. Plastic scraper
4. Roll of 1.5" blue painter's tape (the distance in between your stripes is up to you. This is what I used)
5. A roll of 12" stripes for you guys with '05 and newer stangs or 8" for earlier models.(I bought my stripes from Americanmuscle.com)
6. Roll of twine or string for measuring distance from outer edge of the body to the stripe local
7. tape measure
8. Straight edge
So first things first, wash your car and make sure there's no bugs or wax or anything that will be where your stripes will be. I'ld also suggest that your car be cool when applying the stripes.
Once the car is surgical room clean, Start by taking the string and measuring sideways across the hood to find the center. Now, take that measurement and figure out how wide half your tape width is. This resulting number is is where you need to put the tape. In other words, half your tape width should be on one side of the center line of your hood. On my 04 I believe it was somewhere around 25 1/4" or something like that. You can measure all the way up the hood or just lay the tape and triple eye it like I did. I recommend you tape the entire car before starting to stripe. Also, for those with a 99-04 stang, you can use the trunk key hole as a centering point.
Now time for the striping.
Measure the distance of the area where you will put the stripe. I started with the hood. Add about 2-3 inches to your measurement to allow for uh-ohs and over lap. *Make sure you have enough to tuck under the hood at both the front and rear and everywhere else you can tuck the ends* Now use the tape measure and the straight edge to cut a perfect line. *Make sure you cut the stripe with the color side up. Otherwise you may scratch the stripe.* I used a sewing cutting board as a cutting surface. Once the stripe is cut, spray the area with windex and also spray the back side of the stripe. The stripe is like a giant sticker hence the windex. The more you spray the more you'll have to squeegee out and the longer it will take to dry. (The windex is to allow the stripe to slide around while you position it.) Once you have the stripe in the place where you want it, start to squeegee the windex out from under the stripe and make sure to get the air bubbles out. (I used lint free clothes to help soak up the windex that was squeegeed out.) Once the air bubbles are out move on to the next area and repeat the process. A note for those with the v-6 reverse scoop hood: I placed the stripe over the "scoop" and used a razor to cut along it. If you have a better idea use it!
Now with the awesome contours that make the mustang so attractive, also make the striping process much harder. You really get to see how curved your stang is! On the bumpers I would recommend less windex and possibly even a hair drier. Why a hair drier? The hair drier will make the strip more malleable and easier to place into all the contours. On the raised spoiler, my buddy and I found it easier to just remove it and stripe it off the car. The front bumper and the spoiler are the most time consuming and probably the ones where your inner sailor will emerge. Once you are finished all the way around, double check your work and make sure all the air bubbles are gone. Yes, some will show up later, trust me. Once completed I had about 3 feet left and used it for some touch ups and extra tuckage. Allow to dry for 24 hours or longer depending on how the weather is and enjoy the fruits of you labor!
I tried to attach some pics to help with the process but they didn't attach. So, just look at my pics and use those to get the idea.
Stickied as a really great tutorial for stripes!! I can help with the pics if needed.
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test attachmentby Goboss Twoeightyone
[January 20, 2015, 11:42:40 PM]
Re: Hi there from North Carolina! by Goboss Twoeightyone
[January 20, 2015, 05:20:07 PM]
Hi there from North Carolina! by RJCampana
[January 20, 2015, 07:39:17 AM]
Re: My GO Mustang GT -07 From Sweden is now register. :)by Goboss Twoeightyone
[January 02, 2015, 01:10:21 PM]
My GO Mustang GT -07 From Sweden is now register. :)by Tobias Andersson
[January 02, 2015, 01:04:53 PM]